Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and tourists alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it joins a global network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this venerable city is little surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the spotlight for what has consistently shaped its soul: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a constant discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of food experimentation, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on many street corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – lesser-known gems that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is precise and demanding. The cook hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will inspire more people around the world to learn these tales and experience the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
